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art of metal work arrived in Indonesia in the Bronze Age from
Southern Chinese and Southeast Asian areas. Bronze drums, dated
from as early as the fifth century BC, have been found
throughout the archipelago, and some of them are believed to
have been cast in Bali. Indeed, the most famous of these drums,
the massive Moon of Pejeng, still rests in Bali on a temple
pavilion in the village of Pejeng. The drums were cast in the
lost wax style and in stone molds. Beads of glass, carnelian,
shell, silver, gold and other metals have been found in Bronze
age sites as well. The earliest metal jewelry was primarily
copper with some gold, silver and "suwasa", which is
one part gold and two parts copper. Metal age graves reveal gold
necklaces, hairpins, beads and rings. Initially, raw gold made
its way to Indonesia from China and India but eventually gold
was found in Sumatra, which became famous for its jewelry and
dagger hilts.
By the time of
the birth of Christ, the people of Sumatra and Java were
practicing rice cultivation with irrigation and the use of the
buffalo-drawn plow. The accumulation of wealth which ensued
encouraged the refinement of many art forms, including jewelry.
By AD 1,000 gold and silverwork in Java had reached a level of
artistry as high as that of the bronze caster. The abundance of
gold was documented by a Chinese trader who reported in 1225
that Javanese criminals, except for thieves and murderers, were
not imprisoned or subjected to corporal punishment but fined in
gold.
The Majapahit
Empire of Java began colonizing Bali in the 14th century. (The
Majapahit imposed a caste system on Bali with themselves on top
and the original inhabitants of the island on the bottom.) By
the beginning of the 16th century Bali became a sanctuary for
Hindus forced out of an increasingly Islamicized Java. As the
Majapahit Empire crumbled, there was a huge influx into Bali of
Javanese noblemen and craftsmen and Bali became one of the main
centers of precious metal craft.
The facility
where we produce our Bali sterling silver beads is located in
Bali, in the outskirts of a village called Celuk. Celuk has a
tradition of metal work that stretches back many generations.
Its craftsmen catered to aristocrats in the nearby court town of
Gianyar and the noble houses of Sukawati and Ubud. Historically,
the Royal Courts of Bali were avid patrons of the arts, which
they used as expressions of their sacred and temporal power. The
Dutch sea captain Arnoudt Lintgens, who visited the court
kingdom of Gelgel in east Bali in 1597, was impressed by the
lavish display of exquisitely fashioned gold ornaments including
parasol fittings, lances and daggers.
Although most
smiths come from the lowest 'sudra' caste, Balinese metal smiths
have always been held in awe. The word 'pandai' means both
'smith' and 'clever'. A group of smiths from Singaraja, in the
North part of the Island, trace their line back before the
immigration of the Majapahit Javanese. Another clan of smiths
consider themselves direct descendants of Brahma, the fiery
Hindu God. The symbolic importance of precious metals in Hindu
cosmology is reflected in the belief that the triple peaks of
Mt. Meru, the abode of the Gods and the center of the world, are
made of gold, silver and iron.
The Balinese have
several traditions concerning the origin of goldsmiths. Ancient
Hindu lontars (books of inscriptions written on leaves of the
lontar palm) tell of the mythical history of the arts. In one,
the gods are sent to Earth to teach men civil behavior. The god
Mahadewa trained the goldsmiths and silversmiths while Sang
Citra gave them specific instruction in jewelry making. Smiths
who worked with precious metals were called, "pande mas,"
goldsmiths, from then on. In another inscription, a Brahmin from
Majapahit named Empu Sari first taught the Balinese to work
gold. Yet another calls the first goldsmith Sang Mangkukuwan,
eldest son of Vishnu.
Balinese smiths
still produce beautiful gold ornaments for domestic use but the
majority of production is silver work for the export market.
International demand has grown so rapidly that new centers of
production have sprung up in Denpasar and Kuta. In recent years,
Celuk has absorbed young people from diverse backgrounds who
train and work side by side with others whose families have been
working with precious metals for hundreds of years.
There has also
been a significant influx of silver and goldsmiths from the
island of Java. Modern Javanese silversmiths specialize in fine
filigree work and 'plin', a style of shiny flat surfaces and
clean, streamlined joints. In contrast, Balinese smiths
specialize in granulation, in which minute spheres of silver are
arranged in beautiful geometric patterns. Many designers today
want motifs that combine the Javanese and Balinese traditions.
To accommodate them requires cooperation and cross training.
The earliest
Balinese silver jewelry designs were copies of traditional gold
jewelry. The Balinese use beautiful repousee silver bowls and
implements for their temple offerings but for jewelry they
prefer gold, and would rather go without than wear silver. As a
result, silver jewelry developed only recently and has always
been an export product. As the market for silver grew, there was
pressure to diversify and motifs from many cultures were quickly
diffused through the community of smiths. The use by artisans of
multicultural motifs is an ancient practice. Gold jewelry found
from early Egypt, Greece, Phoenicia, Persia and later Rome, all
display motifs borrowed from one another. The migration of
skilled craftsmen, especially goldsmiths, from dying to emerging
civilizations is also an age old trend.
While in the
ancient world migration and Phoenician traders were responsible
for slowly diffusing ideas, the process has become almost
instantaneous with the advent of television, airplanes and fax
machines. Today, buyers come to Bali from all over the world.
Designers flock to the island as well. They are drawn by the
sympathetic environment as much as by the skill of the
craftsmen. Bali seems to nurture creativity. It is a setting in
which the seeds of one's imagination germinate with the same
careless abandon as those of the lush vegetation. Many of the
cottage industries produce work for foreign designers but the
creative process is almost always a collaboration in which the
influence of the Balinese craftsmen is readily apparent in the
finished product.
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